Windows XP going off market in June: What it means

Microsoft originally announced over a year ago that Windows XP would be going off the market in January 2008. XP was later given a brief stay of execution, to June 30, 2008. That deadline is fast approaching, which has led to much panicking from people who aren't quite sure what XP's "going off market" means, exactly.

People are still as confused as ever. So let's take a stab at clarifying, once again, what's going to happen by answering some frequently asked questions about XP's imminent disappearance.

Will Windows XP really no longer be on sale after June 30? Sorry for the double negative, but no. All this means is that Microsoft will stop selling the OS. Finding a computer with XP preinstalled will likely be very difficult, as well. However, you'll still be able to find copies for the foreseeable future, and likely the unforeseeable one, too. See for yourself: You can find copies of just about any Microsoft product, including ancient versions of Windows and even MS-DOS, by simply searching online. But hang on to your current copy of Windows XP. You may need it down the road if you don't want to move to Vista.

Will I be forced to upgrade to Vista soon? No. But it will get harder and harder not to, especially since new software and peripherals are likely to stop working with XP. That could take years.

Will my XP machine stop working in June? No, but Microsoft will stop releasing non-security software updates to the masses on April 14, 2009. But let's be clear: XP will continue to "work" even after this point.

Will Microsoft shut off product activation for XP after June? No, that would be crazy. While no one has said this will happen, it's conceivable that Windows could shut down product activation for XP at some point. But that would only happen after XP reaches its end-of-support term (when all support plans expire). The good news for you: That happens on April 8, 2014, which should be plenty of time to get the kinks worked out of Vista-or switch to a Mac, Linux, or anything else. Bottom line: Your copy of XP will work, totally legally, for at least six more years.

What about this exception for Windows XP Home Edition I hear about? Doesn't apply to you. Microsoft will continue to sell XP to makers of ultra-cheap laptops like the Asus Eee PC until 2010 because they just can't run Vista. But it is not going to make XP Home Edition available as installable software to end-users.

What about after 2014? Well, that's unclear. But it's possible XP will stop being installable at that point. Microsoft's official policy is that these dates have "no affect [sic] on how long you can use a product," which may imply product activation will work forever. However, two things come to mind:

1) Even the most die-hard XP enthusiast will probably be ready to upgrade at that point (as XP will be nearly 15 years old, and your PC will be dead by then, I'm sure).

2) Even if Microsoft shuts off product activation, the hacker community will certainly make dozens of tools to let you continue using XP with abandon. Fret not.

Can I install XP on a PC that has Vista already on it? Yes. You can delete any partition with any OS on it (and reformat it) during the installation of XP. If you're feeling brave, you can even run both OSes at the same time by setting up a dual-boot machine.

Whew! Does that clear everything up? Feel free to continue sending your queries and adding your comments below.

Note: This post was originally created in April 2007 and updated with new and changed information in April 2008.

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Beat the spyware

Spybot - Search & Destroy detects and removes spyware, a relatively new kind of threat not yet covered by common anti-virus applications. Spyware silently tracks your surfing behaviour to create a marketing profile for you that is transmitted without your knowledge to the compilers and sold to advertising companies. If you see new toolbars in your Internet Explorer that you haven't intentionally installed, if your browser crashes inexplicably, or if your home page has been "hijacked" (or changed without your knowledge), your computer is most probably infected with spyware. Even if you don't see the symptoms, your computer may be infected, because more and more spyware is emerging. Spybot-S&D is free, so there's no harm giving it a try to see if something has invaded your computer.

To see a list of threats Spybot-S&D can remove, in the navigation bar at the left click on Support --> Threats. For an introduction to Spybot-S&D, please read the tutorial. If you fear incompatibility with other software you are now using, although we can assure you that there is no danger you can review our compatibility overview which lists some software whose compatibility has been analyzed.

Spybot-S&D can also clean usage tracks, an interesting function if you share your computer with other users and don't want them to see what you have been working on. And for professional users, Spybot-S&D allows you to fix some registry inconsistencies and extended reports. A list of all the application's features is also available.

I've try it and i can said it's the best free anti-spyware now! compared with ad-aware 2007 free edition, Spybot 1000% better than ad-aware.

Download Spybot S&D (not a fake anti-spyware)

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Best antivirus software for 2008

You're crazy to use a computer on the web without antivirus software, but getting solid antivirus protection doesn't have to mean spending a fortune. In fact, some of the most capable antivirus products don't cost a thing.

Here are some of my personal thoughts on the best antivirus products on the market, both free and commercial.

Free

Alwil Avast! 4.6 Home Edition - Venerable Avast! is still free for personal use, and it's a relatively unobtrusive and capable virus stomper that will work well for just about anyone. A new feature adds a web proxy to the mix (which filters all traffic running through it for security risks), and it works will all major web browsers. It also recognizes non-virus threats like spyware and adware. The Pro edition ($40) adds a few power-user features that the average user probably won't miss. Give the free version a try!

Aviva AntiVir PersonalEdition Classic 7 - This has long been a capable and effective antivirus product, especially noteworthy for its fast operation.

UPDATE: Many readers have asked me about Grisoft's AVG product. I've used it and don't really prefer it to Avast/Aviva, namely because it does not seem to scan all files effectively. Independent security ratings place it relatively low in overall capability as well. Your mileage may vary, of course.

Paid

Trend Micro Internet Security Pro - Trend Micro has long been an also-ran in the antivirus world, but after spending some time with a recent version of the software I've been impressed with how well it works, its paucity of crashes, and how generally effective it is. Trend offers three vaguely similar versions of its security application; this one ($70) is the most inclusive, and cheaper than the rest. You can also get plain antivirus for just $40.

Kaspersky Internet Security 7.0 - If you want absolute and utter control over every 1 and 0 that enters and exits your computer, Kaspersky is the app for you. I honestly don't think you can get any more secure than with Kaspersky locking down your system, but it was overkill even for me, and I had trouble convincing it not to remove some applications I knew were OK and actually wanted on my PC. Kaspersky is a hungry shredder with no reverse button (and it's on the slow side, too). $80. (Anti-virus only is $60.) I put NOD32 in this category; it's very similar in operation but can be heavy-handed.

Symantec Norton 360 - I've been a Norton user in various forms for close to a decade; the latest version doesn't do much different than the last few years' worth, but it's still rock-solid security that I don't hesitate to rely on. My only complaint is that Norton can slow down your computer quite a bit (like Kaspersky) and almost invariably hangs when I'm trying to shut down my computer. If you've ever wondered where all those error messages about programs like "ccApp" not responding come from, well, you've found it. It's frustrating that these problems persist year after year. $80 for Norton 360, or AntiVirus only for $60.

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Movies on DVD, hard drive, or USB: Which is best for laptop batteries?

Notebooks use a lot of power, but by isolating which components use it, you can add substantial run time to a machine without sacrificing utility.

To answer this question I performed three experiments on a Dell Inspiron notebook, playing back a movie file as a DVD, as an AVI ripped to the hard drive, and as the same AVI ripped to a USB thumbdrive and played back from there. All other settings on the machine were identical.

The results were interesting. Playing back a DVD, I got battery life of 2 hours, 36 minutes. As expected, when playing back from the hard drive, battery life climbed to 3 hours, 5 minutes. I expected even higher numbers from the USB thumbdrive playback but was in for a surprise: Run time plummeted way down to 2 hours, 33 minutes, the worst of the bunch. Quite interesting.

The hard drive vs. DVD isn't a big shock. A spinning optical drive uses about 5 watts of power, while an active hard drive uses just 2 to 3 watts. So naturally battery life will rise when you're not using the optical drive (especially since Windows likes to access your hard drive periodically anyway, whether you're using it or not).

The USB thumbdrive results were surprising, though, as USB devices have a reputation for not using a lot of power. I did a little research I found that power consumption can be erratic for USB devices, which likely explains the discrepancy (there is also a random component to any battery test, but not 30 minutes of randomness). One thumbdrive may only draw half a watt of power, but another may draw several watts. The USB interface itself draws power, too. Alas, there are no good studies of power consumption among different brands of thumbdrives, and I only tested using a single thumbdrive. The results could have been different had I used a different brand drive, but you'd have to experiment to find the right one.

Putting USB aside for now, one thing is clear: You can get substantially better battery life if you rip your DVDs to your hard drive before you take that trip. Not only that, you'll have to pack less (and DVDs are fragile), and you'll find switching between movies much more convenient, too.

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LocalCooling manages your PC's power consumption

Earth Hour took place this past weekend, but you don't have wait another year to do something about global warming. Doing simple things around the house, like shutting down the computer when it's not in use, can make a huge difference too. A free application called LocalCooling can help you adjust your computer's power settings so you can save money and reduce your greenhouse gas emissions.

This utility only works on machines running Vista or Windows XP, but really, anyone can go into their control panel to change the power options at any time. The one advantage this application has is that it tells you how many watts your computer is using. More specifically, it tells you which PC components (monitor, CPU, hard drive) are using up the most power, and it gives you the option to choose from a low, medium, or high power savings mode, so you don't have to waste time guessing which options will save the most energy.

The widget also translates your overall stats into the amount of gas, trees, or kWh you're saving over time so you can brag to your friends. What's neat about LocalCooling is once you've created an account, you can either set up a local group or join an existing one to take the energy savings competition to another level. This is definitely a cool tool you can use to teach the kids about saving energy and money.

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How to beat spyware and viruses

The last time I wrote a piece on how to remove spyware from your computer was in 2006. Time for an update, I think. Here's my perennial "How to Beat Spyware" howto, revised and updated for 2008 (and combined into a single file instead of two parts).

Here's what to do if you suspect an infection on your Windows PC. (Please note these steps apply to both Windows XP and Vista.)

1) Are you sure it's spyware or a virus? Windows pop-ups and alerts can often seem invasive enough to be viruses, especially with Vista. Try searching the web for the exact text you see on the screen to make sure you aren't dealing with an aggressive Windows message. (Many of these can be turned off, so try whatever instructions you find.) On the other hand, some viruses masquerade as Windows alerts, so tread lightly.

2) Boot in safe mode. If you have a virus, first step is to try booting in safe mode. You can get to safe mode (a simplified version of Windows that disables a lot of extra gunk, possibly including some spyware apps) by restarting your PC and tapping F8 during boot. Soon you'll get a menu of options. Select "Safe Mode" (it's at the top of the menu) and wait for the machine to fully boot. The system will look funny (with a black background and larger icons, probably), but don't worry about it. This is only temporary. (Also note that many spyware applications can disable safe mode, so if you find this doesn't work, just boot normally.)

3) Run your antivirus application. This is of course assuming you have an antivirus application. (Need one? Check here.) You're in safe mode now, so run a full scan of your PC at maximum security levels (include the option to scan within compressed files, for example). This will probably take an hour or more, so be patient. Fix any problems the virus scan turns up. Then reboot into safe mode again using the procedure in step 2.

4) Run one or two anti-spyware applications. I used to recommend running multiple anti-spyware apps, but virtually all antivirus apps now do a pretty good job at getting rid of spyware too, so you don't need an army of additional applications just for spyware. Also, I now recommend starting with AdAware (which is free) and moving on to Spyware Doctor (free as part of the Google Pack) if you feel you need additional help. (Please note that recent versions of Spyware Doctor and Norton Antivirus have some trouble with each other.) You can try other apps too, but the once-recommended SpyBot Search & Destroy is no longer very effective, sadly. (Neither is Microsoft's own Windows Defender.) Of course, fix anything and everything these apps find.

5) Reboot normally. (Not in safe mode.) Now take stock. Still got spyware? It's time to move along to my more advanced techniques for removing the nasties.

6) Run HijackThis. HijackThis is a free software tool that scans your computer to find malware that other apps might miss. Scroll down to "Official downloads" to download the tool. Next, simply open the ZIP file you downloaded, extract the application, and run the tool (you don't need to install it). Click the "Do a system scan and save a logfile" button. You'll receive a large text file as well as a dialog box which gives you a list of active software processes, which you can then choose to delete. Unfortunately, this list includes both helpful and unhelpful software, so don't just start deleting items. Continue in step 7 to figure out how to fix your spyware infection.

7) Post your log file online. Visit this page, which offers a list of forums staffed by volunteers who can help you interpret your HijackThis log. The SWI Forums are especially busy, but most of the forums on the list are equally apt. Go to SWI and visit the "Malware Removal" forum which has over 50,000 topics listed: Those are all people like you who are seeking help getting rid of spyware. Register for an account, read the FAQ, then visit that Malware Removal forum, and post a new topic. Paste the content of the text file you created in step 5 into this topic and (politely) ask for help. You will get a response from a volunteer helper, typically within 3 days. You'll be given specific advice on what entries to remove with the HijackThis tool, and you might be pointed to additional software to run to help remove common spyware infections. Follow all the instructions and keep working with the forum helpers until either you or they give up. (And no, don't send your log file to me or post it here. I am not nearly the spyware removal expert that these guys are.)

7a) Alternately: Paste your log file into an automated tool. Don't have three days? Try simply pasting your HijackThis log file into this form. It does a pretty good job at auto-analyzing what's wrong with your machine, with no waiting. As well, if that doesn't work, you can search for the items you find in the HijackThis log by name to see what they are and how to remove them, if they're spyware. This can be quite time consuming, though.

8) Try System Restore. If that doesn't work, you might try running Windows System Restore to roll back your OS to a time before the infection happened. This isn't foolproof: You might not have System Restore turned on, or the spyware might have shut System Restore off, as well. But it's worth a shot. With either XP or Vista, System Restore can be found under Start > All Programs > Accessories > System Tools > System Restore.

9) Give up and wipe your hard drive. At this point, you've exhausted all the options I know of. You might try again at steps 6/7 to make sure you've done everything you can to salvage the PC. Forum helpers will often work with you for weeks to help fight a spyware infection, but there are tens of thousands of possible variants out there, with new ones cropping up every day. It's just not possible to clean them all, every time. Sometimes the only thing you can do is call it quits, reformat your hard drive, and reinstall your OS. Again, make sure you have your backups ready and verified. Once you're up and running, reinstall your antivirus and anti-spyware applications, and stay vigilant against infection. Good luck.

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